Wines are like people. With some you click at first sight, with some later, and with some never. With some only you click, while to others they never become dear. Pjenušac bijeli 2021 by the distinctive Kaštela winemaker Ivan Kovač Matela is a wine with character. A wine, truly, first and foremost a wine, and only then a sparkling wine. It is quite fresh, thanks to those bubbles created by a second fermentation in the bottle, yet rich, broad and deep thanks to the great variety. It is made from Maraština and it is special. Just as its winemaker is special.
After a sip you feel no rapids or waterfalls in the mouth; the wine flows like a slow river. And like a river it does not stop, but goes on and oooon. Even when it leaves, it leaves a trace in the mouth that calls for more. On the nose it recalls a little the snowdrop, harbinger of spring, whose other name is the spring snowflake. Well, it does not let you slumber either. It nicely graced small late-night conversations alongside bacon, Grabarje soft cheese and pickled asparagus from Drenovci. If only they were from Drijemovci (Slumbertown)…
07.12.2025.
Written by: Ivo Kozarčanin
